The Short Hem Versus the Break at the Shoe or Thom Browne Look: What is Best for Your Style?
short hem vs. the break at the shoe top look
One of the ongoing debates in modern men’s fashion is to what extent should one embrace the Thom Browne look when it comes to trousers.
For those of you not familiar with this cut, the Thom Browne style is also called the cropped trouser style, involves a hem that arrives just at the wearer’s ankles thus leaving significant space between the bottom of the pant and the top of the shoe.
Some older styles of men’s clothing featuring trouser’s that cascade down onto the shoes themselves, also known as a full break.
In between these two extremes exists a realm of possibilities for men that want to embrace fashion-forward looks that are best suited for their style.
If you are debating between a “no break,” or short hem, versus the Thom Browne look, we will help give you a few pointers on which is best for your style.
The Cropped Pant: Things to Consider
Easily the most fashion-forward look, the cropped pant or Thom Browne style is, unfortunately, not for everyone. To start, if your look is more traditional, then this style probably isn’t going to work for you. That said, if you tend to prefer a more cropped, tailored look overall, there are many advantages to consider here, not least of which is the fact that you will look the part of a modern gentleman that knows his tailoring. Even so, the cropped pant isn’t best for all fabrics and seasons.
We think this tailoring works best on light summer fabrics that need to breathe. If you enjoy the sockless look, this tailoring is perfect for you. It is also ideal for younger gentlemen with slim builds that tend to wear skinny clothing as it emphasizes their figure. If you’re not skinny or slim, you can opt for a “no break” look where the hem of the trousers breaks comes just below the ankle.
The Break at the Shoe Look: Things to Consider
The full break is a traditional look but it is also quite dated. What made this style preferable to gentlemen back in the 1930s and 1940s is that an excess of fabric demonstrated wealth and prestige because the fabric was harder to come by back then.
We don’t have this problem today and, as a result, the cascading style of the full break isn’t necessarily an indicator of taste and refinement. Perfect for older gentlemen or those that have a slightly heavier build, the full break still has its place in modern society and, if done right, looks every bit as tailored as other styles. For those of us that want a bit of a break but not a waterfall of fabric, there is the slight break and medium break with the former coming slightly lower than the “no break” look and the latter arriving just at the top of the wearer’s shoes.
Of the two styles, the slight break tends to be preferred by most men in general as it accommodates traditional and cutting edge styles while also being flattering on most body types. The medium break is perfect for those gentlemen that want the gravitas of age and tradition or who wear more heavyweight clothes like tweed and flannel.