Somewhere in Hermès’ creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s genius mind, an autumn/winter collection inspired by the hues, texture, length, and movement of female hair makes perfect sense.
And in classic (and classical) fashion designer form, it is a theme that she is reluctant to expand upon too much, except within the parameters of this sumptuous collection.
This is the Hermès world, where the finer things have already been proven, demonstrated rather than shouted from the rafters.
And the genius of any creative, particularly of those at the very pinnacle of a luxury concern such as Hermès, is in translating an idea into a collection that wins the hearts of a dedicated and very specific clientele (who expect refinement and taste) whilst also pushing ideation into new realms by shaking (not too hard) house traditions.
On March 04th, objective achieved. The Parisian creative director’s collection for Hermès lead with the consolidation of luxury ideals – shape, form, and poise – that are appropriate for a brand never reactively seeking to prove its place.
That’s not to say that Hermès never experiments – Jean Paul Gaultier’s period at the house yielded arguably his finest work, reigning in some of his wilder tendencies, while framing and validating raunchiness through the brand’s marquee equestrianism.
Cybulski is now almost nine years at Hermès, and not for nothing is she termed a kind of quiet revolutionary. Yes, there have been drop-dead-gorgeous moments – A/W 2016’s translucent blues and short jackets and hip sliding skirts for S/S 2021.
But mostly, and certainly here, Vanhee-Cybulski’s approach is an invitation to explore luxury’s layered depths at your serious leisure. The unusual theme for this show can be explained best by those hair-associated nouns – hues are creamy blonde, auburn, black, and silver. Textures like fur, intarsia, and lurex all entrance with their depth and patterning. Length and movement mirror the sweep of long locks (rather than, for example, Gaultier’s cropped and emphasized highlights).
There are subtle daring points too – those fine riding boots that elongate the female form, and the dainty chain belts that could be a pocket-entrance to the soul.
Bucket bags are chocolate-good enough to eat; a future-forward leather jump suit with metallurgic interlocking sweater means business. Elsewhere, a front-interlocking wool weave pattern creates a ponytail dream. And black leather is so fine that, under these conditions, it almost emits light.
It never really demands answers to the questions, why hair, why now? But at Hermès you never really have to ask. Vanhee-Cybulski’ perfect creations invite you to sit back or (for those fortunate enough to wear them) dress up. And adore.